You have your scroll saw ready, you know how to choose your material, and you found a great source of patterns. Now all you need to do before you start cutting away is to find a way to adhere the pattern to your base. There are many ways to apply your scroll saw pattern, depending on the type of base you are using. Here are the best ways that we, at The Holz Brothers, would recommend.

If you have come here to learn the easiest ways, or new ways to transfer your pattern to your base, then read on. If you need help finding a pattern, or need some inspiration, try looking at our large selection of beautiful patterns. As ever, please join us on Facebook if you have any questions.

Regards,

Hans Holz

Applying the Pattern to the Wood

There are, without a doubt, many methods to adhere scroll saw patterns to your base. The best type of adhesive all boils down to one thing: the softness of the wood you are using.

The first, and most important tip before adhering your paper pattern, is to ensure that your surface is smooth and even, and has no residual saw dust before getting started. Clean off residual with a rag, and then use your bare hand to remove the finer saw dust particles.

For softer woods, use painters tape, Elmer's glue spray, graphite or carbon transfer paper, or large labels. You can destroy your hours of hard work by removing wood fibers if you use other forms of adhesives that may be too strong. These include temporary-bond adhesive spray and clear packaging tape; they should only be used for harder woods/surfaces. Any forms of the adhesives mentioned above can be safely used for harder surfaces.

So which adhesive is the best? Let’s explore each method’s strengths and weaknesses, so you can decide which one might work best for you.

Temporary-Bond Spray Adhesive

There are many types of temporary-bond adhesive glues. Some scroll sawers use the gentler options: elmers glue spray or glue sticks; others use stronger adhesives: 3M Adhesive or Loctitite. There are a variety of ways that you can attach your patterns to wood. First, you can stick it directly to the wood. Audreyobscura, community manager of Instructables, recommends following these steps to ensure best results when using just adhesive.

First, hold your pattern vertically in the air; this prevents dribbling and allows an even coverage. Then spray 1-2 coats, depending on the thickness of the glue. Next, allow up to 30 seconds for the sprayed glue to become tacky; this allows for a strong bond. Lastly, smooth the pattern onto your wood surface. Allow adequate time to dry. On average this takes about an hour, depending on the humidity of the room, the temperature, and how much adhesive you spray. This varies depending on the adhesive used; follow the instructions found on the can.

Temporary bond spray is a go to for many scrollers for multiple reasons. One is for it being inexpensive. With varieties to choose from, it can be a bit overwhelming. A favorite of scrollers is 3M Super 77. It applies quickly, dries fast, and can easily be applied evenly when done correctly. However, if left on too long, the strength of the glue might pull up the wood fibers upon removal if the wood is too soft.  It should also be used in a well-ventilated area. In order to remove it, you would need a good adhesive remover. Also, when spraying, for your safety, it is advised you use a respirator, goggles, and gloves.

There are cheaper options, such as elmer's glue, glue sticks, etc., but these are not as sturdy, and may come up while cutting if applied directly to the wood. It is recommended to use directly on tape, such as clear packaging tape or painters masking tape.

Pros

• Fast application
• Dries fast
• Even application

Cons

• You risk lifting the fibers of the wood if the strength of the spray is too aggressive, or the wood is too soft
• If you work multiple days on your project, it may be more difficult to remove
• You will need adhesive remover or sanding to remove the residual
• Use in a well-ventilated area
• You may need a respirator, goggles, and gloves when using some of the adhesives
  

Clear Packaging Tape - a.k.a Masking tape

Using clear packaging tape removes the need for sanding, or using adhesive remover to remove residual. Some scroll sawers place strips of tape directly on the surface, and glue the pattern onto the tape. Other scrollers layer the tape by adding an extra layer of tape on top of the paper template. It is recommended that even if you put on clear packaging tape, to use glue on the paper template as this decreases the chances of your pattern from lifting while cutting. When the paper lifts, you are more likely to cut yourself.

This method is a great way to ensure clean removal of the paper template. I advise you use clear masking tape for the thick or hard words because if left on too long on the softer woods, it may remove wood fibers, depending on the strength of the glue. Victor01 shares that clear packing tape left on for more than 3 days may remove fibers. This method is also ideal if you want to stain your wood pattern right after because there is no need to dampen your wood with an adhesive remover since the paper template comes off with no residual. The glue of the tape also lubricates your blade as it cuts, ensuring a smooth, clean cut.

The only down side of this method is that it takes more time to apply the paper pattern to ensure a smooth, even application of the tape. If the tape overlaps, it leaves your surface uneven, but if there are gaps between the tape, then glue can get on your wood surface defeating the purpose of the tape.

Pros

• Removal is with minimal residual, depending on how long your pattern was on your wood
• Great for cutting thick or hard woods
• Glue of tape can lubricate your blade while cutting
• Allows you to begin staining immediately after you are finished cutting, unlike when using adhesive remover, which may take a day or two to completely dry

Cons

• Use caution when using for softer woods, leave the tape on for no more than 3 days because it may remove wood fibers
• Takes more time to put on layers of tape, and ensuring an even application
• Overlapping tape will cause creasing, and may be an annoyance when cutting
  

Painters Masking Tape

Another alternative is painters masking tape. The adhesive on the tape isn’t as strong, which decreases your chances of removing wood fibers days after you first put it on and finish cutting. Some scroll sawers place strips of painters tape directly on the surface, and glue the pattern onto the tape. Other scrollers, similar to when using clear packaging tape, layer the tape by first putting the painters tape on the wood, glue the pattern onto the tape, then add an extra layer using clear packaging tape on top of the pattern.

The advantages of using painters masking tape are the same as using clear packaging tape, but painters tape can be used for any type of wood because it is a lot less likely to remove wood fibers when you try removing it from your wood pattern. The disadvantages are also the same as using clear packaging tape in that it takes time to apply to ensure smooth coverage of your wood surface, and may be an annoyance when cutting if the layers are overlapping.

Pros

• Removal is with minimal residual, depending on how long your pattern was on the wood
• Great for cutting any woods
• Glue of tape can lubricate your blade while cutting
• Less likely to remove fibers of wood like clear packaging tape might if left on the wood surface for an extended period of time
• Allows you to begin staining immediately after you are finished cutting, unlike when using adhesive remover, which may take a day or two to completely dry

Cons

• Takes more time to put on layers of tape, and ensuring an even application
• Overlapping tape will cause creasing, and may be an annoyance when cutting
  

Clear Laminate Shelving Paper - a.k.a Contact Paper

This method is not known by many, and takes the best of both worlds of using tape. Clear laminate shelving paper is a clear sticky sheet of plastic, like the clear masking tape. Place the laminate shelving paper directly on your surface, spray adhesive to pattern, and press onto the laminate shelving paper. If you prefer, you can also add an extra layer of adhesive paper to the top of the pattern.

This is another great method because it has all of the benefits of using clear masking tape, but it’s faster to apply without having to worry about layering. The price is similar to clear masking tape and leaves no residual. Bubbling can occur, so use a credit card while applying to prevent any bubbling.

Pros

• Easier application than tape
• No residue
• Similar price as tape
• No overlapping

Cons

• For larger projects, it can be difficult to lay evenly without getting bubbles
  

Graphite or Carbon Transfer Paper

This method, though not commonly used, has some benefits. But first, let's go over the differences of graphite paper vs. carbon paper.

Graphite comes in a variety of colors, is easily removed from the wood, but is more expensive.

Carbon paper is less expensive, but is more difficult to remove from the wood. We recommend using 220-grit sandpaper to remove the lines. Carbon paper also doesn’t come in a variety of colors so it can only be used on light colored woods.

When using graphite or carbon transfer paper, tape one edge of your pattern onto the wood first. After, slide the carbon or graphite paper underneath the pattern, and tape one corner down of it. By using this method, it allows you to put the paper pattern right where you want it on the wood surface, and check your work while drawing. Lastly, take a fine pointed object, such as a pencil or pen, and trace your pattern.

Tip: You can also trace onto transparent transfer paper first, then use it as a clear stencil in order to see exactly where you would like your lines to be on the wood surface before you begin tracing onto the wood. One disadvantage of using this method is that continual tracing and retracing can slightly alter the design, depending on your ability.

Pros

• You can see how the design looks on the wood before cutting
• Doesn't cost a lot ($4-$15).

Cons

• Requires more time and may alter the design slightly while drawing the lines on

Large label

Some scroll sawers prefer printing patterns onto large sticky labels. This is one of the best options. All you would need to do is purchase large blank labels, and print your patterns onto them using virtually any printer.

This method is the best because it is the cleanest and fastest of all of the application methods. You just print your pattern on a large label sheet using any printer, apply it easily, and then remove it without a trace when you are done. There is no layering, and it's smooth and easy to cut. Labels are also relatively inexpensive because you don’t need any other adhering supplies. The only disadvantage is that if left on for too long, depending on the adhesiveness of the label, it may be a little difficult to remove in one piece.

Pros

• Less layering, no creases unlike when using tape
• Depending on the adhesiveness of the label, and thickness of the wood, it can be easily removed

Cons

• Need a printer to produce labels

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How do I remove my pattern?

Mineral Spirits

Mineral spirits is a go to for many scroll sawers in removing residual adhesive. If you have a lot of paper stuck on the wood, apply some mineral spirits using a towel, then allow the mineral spirits to soak through the paper. A “Supporter”, Dick, recommends allowing it to soak through the paper pattern and adhesive, at least 15 seconds, before attempting to remove the paper. This will allow for all of the paper pattern to come off of the wood in big pieces, and without leaving tiny pesky pieces of paper behind, or residual glue. Mineral spirits is also a relatively cheap option for removing your paper patterns, and for those who are bothered by the smell, there are odorless options. However, you should still use gloves and a respirator, and allow one to two days for your wood pattern to dry before applying stain.

Pros

• Works really well in removing all residual
• Doesn’t take too much time if allowed to soak through the pattern down to the wood
• Doesn’t cost a lot ($12-$17)
• Odorless Mineral Spirits are available

Cons

• Gloves and respirator are recommended
• Must allow drying time of one to two days if you desire to stain your wood
• Use in a well-ventilated area
  
  

Adhesive remover

Adhesive remover is a general category that encompasses acetone, paint thinner, and glue gone. The application is similar to mineral spirits: use a towel when applying the adhesive remover, allow for soaking time, and gently scrub away stubborn pieces of paper and glue. These options are also relatively inexpensive, but still require drying time after use before applying stain to your wood. They may also have a strong odor, so it is recommended to use gloves and a respirator. Be sure to use in a well-ventilated area.

Pros

• Doesn’t cost a lot ($3-$15)

Cons

• Removal may take more time depending on how strong the adhesive is
• Requires gloves
• Must allow drying time of one to two days if you desire to stain your wood
• Some tend to have a strong odor
• Use in a well-ventilated area

Sanding

Sanding is a great method to remove residual adhesive. This method is great when you only have a little residual glue left, and without dampening your pattern with mineral spirits or adhesive remover. This method is great because it takes very little time, and requires no drying time if you want to stain your pattern. However, you would need to remove most of the paper off first, otherwise it will clog your sand paper.

Pros

• Takes very little time and effort, if you are able to remove most of the pieces of paper
• No drying time needed like when using mineral spirits or adhesive remover

Cons

• Need to pick off bigger pieces of paper first, pieces of paper can clog the sand paper
  

Conclusion

Ultimately, there are many methods to make your pattern adhere to your wood base. If a label printer is available to you, the label is the best as it leaves no residual, goes on smooth, and it less likely to remove wood fibers from your project.

However, if you prefer a more inexpensive option, contact paper and gluing on you pattern to it, is a great alternative that costs very little. This method is less likely to remove wood fibers like clear packing tape might, and is fast to apply.

In the end, every scroller has his or her preferences, try some of the suggestions above, and see which one you like best.

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Any scroll saw designer – regardless of level of skill – knows that blades are finicky. The right type can make for the perfect scroll saw project – but the wrong type can leave you with a difficult scroll art pattern that your material can't take to. Where's the compromise? Making sure you always have the right tool for the job... and that's where we at Holz Brothers come in.

My brother Hans would tell you that we provide expert information to go alongside our 'unique and fantastic' scroll saw patterns. The truth is that Hans and I began this company because we love our craft. We want everyone who is interested in scroll saw art to have as many options as we do and we want products specific to a scroll saw designer to be more widely available to all. With this in mind, we keep a blog chock-full of hints and tips about scroll saw art, saws, patterns and materials so that nobody feels like a complete amateur for long.

We thought if would be helpful to create a list of common blade issues, types, designs and more in the hope that each of you will find your next project that little bit easier. The knowledge is completely free, of course, but if you are feeling inspired afterwards you may want to browse through our Scroll Saw Patterns to carry on that momentum. In the meantime, let's delve into everything you need to know about scroll saw blades and get you well on your way to success.

Getting To Know Scroll Saw Blades

The first thing you need to know is that there are several different types of saw blade and one size does not fit all machines. Some attach a certain way, others need a tool to change them. Some scroll saw patterns require a blade with particular teeth and others need a tougher metal to cut through what you need it to. If you get the blade wrong you risk snapping it, potentially hurting yourself or causing damage to the scroll saw itself... and let me tell you, a snapped blade can hurt.

Unfortunately a blade will break if you don't adjust the tension correctly as well, so you should budget ahead and always keep a few spare blades around. You can pick them up either online or at your local hardware store in most cases.

For those who are completely knew to the craft of hobby scroll saw carving and are still wondering what a scroll saw blade is: have no fear. The blade that came with your new scroll saw is the part that you will use to cut materials with. It should be located on the end of the mechanical arm and above the 'table' part of your scroll saw. The blade is mounted between the top arm and the bottom of the saw and comes in all sorts of types... If you need a little more explanation we won't judge you – but check Wikipedia before you move on or the rest of the article won't make any sense.

But first, let's talk a little about considerations.

Scroll Saw Blades – What To Consider..?

We will get into type and size of blade in a moment, but first let's talk about the things you ought to consider when selecting the blade you need for the task at hand. Steve Good, legendary producer of the Scrollsaw Workshop, has a few suggestions on this matter. He recommends that you always evaluate these things when purchasing new blades:

• Is the proposed new blade compatible with your machine type? Some manufacturers have specific models of blade and offer no alternative, some scroll saws operate pinned blades, others do not. Check the blade will fit into your model before you buy.
• Different thicknesses and types of material will affect your ability to cut without breaking the blade... make sure the size is accurate by reading our sizing section below.
• Scroll saw pattern choice will impact which blade will work best. Smaller blades with lots of teeth are best for tricky work.
• The type of the blade itself will make a difference to the work you produce... but we will cover this in a moment.

Scroll saw blades are all either pinned or pinless. This simply refers to the ends of the blade and how they connect to the machine. It is common in modern models for home use to have pinned blades, whereas industrial strength machines tend to use otherwise – although the reverse is not unheard of, either.

Scroll Saw Blade Sizes – Which Do You Need?

There are a few different sizes of scroll saw blade which you can see at a glance by downloading the chart from well known industry supplier Olson (or that you can find by visiting this page on Pinterest).  An ordinary scroll saw blade will usually follow a 'Universal Number Code'. Most scroll saw blades are only five inches long but the width of the blade will differ depending on which number it is assigned. Thicker blades are stronger and more durable but less apt to intricate work. Thinner blades are often reserved for finer details.

When trying to find the best blade for your scroll saw project you will most likely be able to choose between different sizes and types of blade. The Universal number code that the sizing is based on runs from 0-12, with some sizes of blade even running into the minus numbers. The lower the number the finer and thinner the blade will be. Likewise, a higher number will be thicker and stronger, most likely able to cut through denser materials. The lowest number of blade you will need for your scroll saw is a #3/0 because anything smaller would only be used for working in lapidary territory.

So: thicker blades = higher numbers, thinner blades = lower numbers. Each has it's pros and cons. A higher numbered saw blade might be sturdier, but it won't be able to make a nice rounded turn in a pattern the same way a lower sized blade will. On the same note; a thinner blade will break easily if used on a tough material.

Scroll saw blades will also have an assigned TPI number. TPI stands for Teeth Per Inch and this number will differ from model to model and from type to type. As a general rule, the higher the TPI the more accurate the scroll saw blade will be.

Do I Need Pin-End Blades Or Pinless Blades?

The answer to this is simply to check your machine. We recommend that you always use a machine that supports pin-end blades because these sit more steadily in you machine. They make for less vibrations up through the table and arm while you work and they do not slide around while you move them. Most pin-end blade scroll saws nowadays are tool-free in terms of changing the blades, so there really is no reason not to play it safe and stick to the pin-end blades... but the choice is ultimately yours.

If you want to read some experienced scrollers discussing the ins and outs of each type of blade you can see this thread on the Scrollsaw Woodworking forum. In the meantime we are going to move on to cover the different types of scroll saw blades that are available on the market.

The Different Types of Scroll Saw Blade

There are different categories or types of scroll saw blade that make the selection process even more confusing. For those new to the craft you may find it beneficial to practice with each blade before you commit to executing a full scroll saw pattern. Each type of blade has a specific design and function, having been specially made to cover certain types of job. We will go into detail on each type of blade in the following passages.

The Standard-Tooth Scroll Saw Blade

Standard-tooth blades are by far the most commonly sold and supplied type of scroll saw blade. The blade that your whole unit came with is probably a standard-tooth blade. They can be identified fairly easily because the teeth are all exactly the same distance apart. Only one edge of the blade will be ridged for cutting effect and it is important that you make sure this side is facing forwards when you change a blade.

There are two main sub-categories of the standard-tooth scroll saw blade; those used for wood and those used for metal. Wood standard-tooth blades will have larger teeth with bigger spaces between the blades. This allows for maximum grip and tear on the wood (as well as to clear away the sawdust as they cut). Metal, which is a denser substance, requires a lot more teeth that will all be of a smaller size (Woodcraft). When carving out or cutting a scroll saw pattern in metal you need all the help you can get.

The standard-tooth scroll saw blade can be used for almost anything. If you want to practice scrolling this is the blade we suggest you do it with as it is the one you are likely to be using the most. It is only if you require fine detailing, to cut an especially hard or soft material or when you have to turn the blade round acute corners that you may need to change to another blade.

The Skip Tooth Scroll Saw Blade

A skip tooth scroll saw blade is very similar to the standard toothed model but with one key difference... you guessed it! Every other tooth has been removed from these blades. The ridges between the teeth (or the gullet, as they call it in the industry) is wider on these blades which makes for a cooler cut that is excellent for beginners to practice with.

The benefits of this removed tooth are that the enlarged gullet allows for better clearance of wood dust and chips. This means you can better see what you are doing – which is perfect for someone who is using a scroll saw for the first time. The skip tooth scroll saw blade is particularly useful for when you are working with materials that tend to burn or smoke. The extra gaps allow for more heat to escape and give you a cleaner cut all round.

If you need a visual on what these skip tooth blades look like you can visit Axminster and have a look at this pinless skip tooth blade. The teeth are still evenly placed but they are much more spaced out along the length. This type of scrollsaw blade only has one cutting edge similarly to the standard tooth type. Again, be sure to make sure the pointed end faces forwards in your machine when you change the blade to avoid damaging anything... including yourself.

The skip-tooth scroll saw blade does not finish as well as some of the others. They are used primarily for rough cutting. It is advised that you use these blades when you need to cut larger materials down to size before you can start your scroll saw pattern of choice, rather than using it on finer details. They are used on coarser or harder materials and will have great chip clearance... always important when you don't want to damage the furniture.

The Double Skip-Tooth Scroll Saw Blade

The double toothed scroll saw blade sports sets of two teeth grouped together along the length of the blade. In a typical five inch blade you might only see six or eight teeth on each one. Again the blade must face outwards when you change it and again only one edge is sharp. Instead of having a gullet between each of the teeth on this type of saw blade, the teeth are paired with the gullet between the pairs being much longer than the gaps between individual teeth are.

According to the suppliers over at Bearwood this tooth setting allows for minimal chipping and a very smooth cut... even although I can tell you from experience that the pattern will take you longer to cut with the double-tooth than it will with a standard. The quality is what matters, and the double produces some good craftsmanship for those who have the patience.

Double skip-tooth blades are excellent in terms of presenting a good finish and the space of the guttering works to keep your material cool should you be using a material you have burned before. You can use this model of scroll saw blade on all hardwoods, plywoods, and even on materials as dense as Corian plastic. Just remember to keep the materials you are cutting to less than 2 inches thick.

The Reverse Skip Tooth Scroll Saw Blade

The reverse skip-tooth scroll saw blade is almost identical to the normal skip-tooth blade. The difference between the two is that they reversed version has the bottom few teeth inverted and pointing upwards. The reason for this is to reduce the tearing of wood or cracking and splitting of more brittle materials (like plywood) while you work. It also makes for less splintering and less chipping.

The downside of the reverse skip-tooth scroll saw blade is that it doesn't clear away the sawdust as well as some of the other scroll saw blade types. Also, and according to Wood Working Fuel, the reverse tends to have a shorter working life as the wear on the blade is greater due to the dual directions of the teeth.

When you are placing or changing a reverse skip-tooth blade you need to make sure that the clamps are holding only two or three of the teeth are showing when the machine is at rest. Some users will cut blades down to size for this purpose. The good news is that you can do this using your scroll saw!

It is also worth mentioning that there is a newly emerged sub category known as the ultra reverse skip-tooth scroll saw blades. This design was orchestrated to be just as good as the reverse but to perform better in its dust clearing abilities. The ultra reverse has two teeth facing down the way and one facing up all along the blade, and you can get a look at this new type of blade by visiting Amazon.

The Precision Ground Scroll Saw Blade

Precision ground scroll saw blades are known for extra strength and durability. Also called PGT (that's Precision Ground Tooth) blades for short, these are the best blades available and are frequently relied upon by experts and professionals. They cost a little more but they do last a good deal longer by comparison to other blade types.

According to industry saw specialists Seyco a PGT blade is the best tool to use when cutting into tough materials, or when you want to speed up the production of your scroll saw project. The reason for this is that they have been designed for minimal cracking and chipping as well as to leave a good finish. When you want to save time this is the blade you go with... a word of caution though: they are not a beginners tool and, when you do progress onto the precision ground blades, make sure you have plenty of off-cuts to practice on.

What makes a precision ground blade different from the others? It is essentially similar in style to a regular skip-tooth blade but instead of being filed or cut into shape the teeth have been ground. This allows for a sharper edge, better points and a more durable blade altogether. Unlike the skip tooth blade the precision ground blade will stay sharper for longer, will cut through more before it blunts and is a hell of a lot less likely to break on you. You can usually use these on the toughest of materials as long as you keep the size number high.

The Spiral Scroll Saw Blade Type

Unlike the other types we have covered so far, the spiral scroll saw blade operates much as its name suggests, giving it the ability to cut in any direction. All of this blade will be coiled around with sharp teeth placed throughout the length. As the spiral is turned the blades tear and cut in all directions, with teeth facing both upwards and downwards throughout.

Apart from being able to cut in all directions the spiral scroll saw blade is often favored for scroll saw projects with irregular patterns. In actuality, these blades have been made by coiling several standard blades around each other until the teeth are showing all the way around. On this one occasion you do not need to make sure that the blades are facing forward when replacing them... but you do need to watch that you don't cut yourself.

What are the issues with a spiral scroll blade type? They tend to stretch when used, albeit slowly. They also struggle with right angles or tight corners, although they do follow irregularly shaped scroll saw patterns reasonably well. We sourced this YouTube video so you could get a better feel for when to use a flat and when to use a spiral blade. As a general rule, if your work curves a spiral blade will be a more adequate tool. According to some users on the Scroll Saw forum, however, the finish might not be quite so fine.

Crown Tooth Scroll Saw Blades

The crown tooth scroll saw blade was designed (reasonably recently) to be the next big innovation in scroll saw blades. They are thus called because they feature crown shaped teeth, with blades facing straight out the way instead of either up or down. They are shaped similarly to the reverse tooth design with gaps between spaced at regular intervals.

The Crown Tooth came around because of the need to incorporate different scrolling materials into the blade types. The crown can be used to cut modern polywoods (Wise Geek) and plexiglass (Pix Art Printing), as well as harder plastics or for scroll saw projects that require a smoother finish than the norm. The crown tooth has high control no matter what speed you go at. As an added bonus you can turn them upside down when they dull and reinsert them for a sharp finish.

Further Information

It is worth mentioning that you do get other types and sizes of scroll saw blade but many of these are made to fit specially designed machines or to perform the cutting or carving of a particular substance. Of all of the blade types, the crown toothed blade and the spiral blade are the two specialized blades that are used the most – and often by scrollers such as yourself!

As ever, please do bookmark our page for future reference and follow our hints and tips on how to excel at your scroll saw artworks. Don't forget that you can contact us with any queries or clarifications you need directly on our facebook group... and remember to stop by our store for any online scroll saw patterns you might need in the future.

Until next time, happy cutting! Try not to lose a finger folks, it's dangerous out there!

-- Helmut Holz

Make your own custom scroll saw patterns

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Learn how at The Holz Brothers pattern store!

Here at Holz Brothers we provide a selection of fantastic, interesting and unique scroll saw patterns for you to choose from... But no matter which pattern you choose for your scroll saw project; the wrong scroll saw wood or material can make or break a good idea. We want our clients to get the most out of scroll saw art, so we put together this guide to selecting materials to work with to help out!

If you have come here for material choices then read on. However, if you are looking for inspiration you may want to browse our exemplary collection of patterns to give you some ideas. Otherwise read on and Helmut can take you through our scroll art material choices. As ever, please join us on Facebook if you have any questions.

Regards,

Hans Holz.

What Makes a Great Scroll Saw Art Material?

A good material is hard wearing but won't break your saw! They can range from every type of wood, to rubber, metals, leathers, even bone! There are different categories of materials and some are safe to use while others are not so safe. As ScrollSaw Workshop superstar Steve Good recommends; a thin material will give you less control; a harder material increases the risk of vibration due to the resistance caused by the hardness. If you choose the wrong material you run the risk of chipping, burning or instability in the wood, all of which will ruin any good scroll art project.

Thickness/Thinness of Material

The thickness needs to be taken into consideration. A scroll saw is an excellent tool for carving or cutting materials that are fairly thin. Most blades can cut through materials up to 2 inches deep – although use caution. A particularly hard 2 inch material will wreck your blade. Thicker woods are often more resistant under your blade and this can lead to problems cutting if you try to go too fast.

As a general rule, a thinner material will have little resistance but this lack makes it more difficult to follow the lines of a pattern. A thicker material will provide more resistance, will be more likely to smoke or burn but will hold a pattern better.

Wood Types: Hard or Soft?

Each has it's merits and each has its flaws. For the most part, softer woods should be chosen to practice with as you get to know your scroll saw. Softer woods will tend to bend more under the blade, will be harder to keep a pattern in and will tend to be a little too flaky for detailed patterns. Hard woods tend to be stronger and more resilient – but this can lead to smoking or chipping if you get the speed wrong. Of all woods, Oak is the hardest to work but is also considered to be the best.

Let's look at some soft and some hard woods in more detail.

Softwoods You Can Use For Scroll Saw Projects

Not all softwoods are completely useless; but you should avoid using pine for any fine work. Cedar and plywoods are recommended as good woods to practice on while some recommend a good quality Baltic birch (Scroll Saw Forums). We actually recommend Poplar as the best practice wood because it has a more even grain than pine, meaning you can cut at an even speed without worrying about changing blades.

As to whether or not you should cut plywood or solid wood: the choice is yours. Plywood has good tensile strength and is very stable, but will eat through your blades a little quicker than a solid soft wood. Solid, natural woods are usually preferred for their beauty and natural grains but, depending on the project, plywood sheets might suit your needs just fine, and make an affordable solution for those working on large scale scroll saw projects.

Hardwoods That Make A Great Scroll Saw Material

Hardwoods are good for keeping the shape of a pattern, for this purpose both Ash and Maple woods are favored. Ash and Maple are not considered best for beginners since they require some degree of skill to cut. Too much speed and both Ash and Maple are likely to vibrate, jump up and down or even smoke. Bring the speed back down and avoid injury.

According to Hunker, Red Oak is another hard wood favorite, as are Walnut and Cherry, which both have lovely grains. However, Sawshub has Birch as a preferred hardwood despite its curly grain and tendency to absorb staining in irregular ways. They also mention Hickory as a cheap hardwood to work with, as well as having one of the best strength-to-weight ratios of all woods.

Finally, Oak is one of the all time greats in terms of scroll saw art – unfortunately it is also one of the hardest woods to work. Consider practicing on off-cuts before you dive straight into cutting a scroll saw pattern in Oak wood.

Polywood Materials – What Exactly Are They?

Polywood has been in use since the 90's although it is a little more advanced than it was back then. Polywood lumber has been specially crafted in a laboratory and is made from High Density Polyethylene, thermoplastics and other (often recycled) plastic materials. This example from POLYWOODS is a typical specimen.

Basically, Polywood is a man made plastic that is cut into blocks or planks much like lumber might be. It is then used in place of timber – and can be cut with your scroll saw provided the sheet is less than 2 inches deep.

Why Use Polywood?

Polywood is incredibly durable. It is weatherproof, waterproof, hard wearing, long-lasting and is arguably more Eco-friendly than using real lumber since it is made from recycled plastics (and can be recycled itself). Polywood is a preferred material for any scroll saw projects which are designed to be kept outdoors.

The benefits of Polywood:

• Hard wearing and long lasting, difficult to scratch.
• Weatherproof and waterproof
• Made from recycled plastics and is recyclable.
• Good resistance, designed to be highly dense and therefore more stable on your cutting table, in much the same way as hardwood might be.

Scroll Saw Art With Non-Wood Materials

Of course, the scroll saw is the best carving tool in any given workshop – so they have been designed to be used with non-wood materials as well. Not every scroll saw is able to cut through every different type of material – and bear in mind that the thickness needs to be less than the 2 inch maximum. If you are unsure of whether or not your machine can handle these non-wood materials then check your instruction manual or contact your manufacturer to avoid breaking anything.

Some Common Types of Non-Wood Scroll Saw Materials

Some of the different things you can cut with your scroll saw include:

• Plastic – not just Polywood but all different types of plastic. Remember that the softer it is the harder it will be to pattern, but stiff plastics should retain shape fairly well and offer decent resistance. Some acceptable plastics include plexiglass (The Woodbox) and acrylic (Overclock).
• Corian – is a heat resistant material that is made of incredibly dense plastic. They look like hard sheets of resin that will offer an even better hardness for cutting on... think of Corian as plastic plus. You can see this article, from the Woodworker's Journal, for tips on cutting it.
• Leather or fabric – fabrics need to be fairly stiff in order for this to work. Anything too delicate will simple fall apart/snag. On the other hand leather lends itself well to scroll saw projects – the key to success here is a sharp, thick blade. You can follow one man's experience here, via the Scrollsaw woodworking forum.
• Veneer – Not a popular choice because it is very resistant. Those who do use veneer tend to favor Oaks or hardwoods to fight back against brittleness.
• Bone – yes, you read that right... bone is a material you can cut or carve with your scroll saw. Some use antlers, some use bone, either will be difficult to cut for the brittleness. They have both hard and soft parts and, by all accounts, they smell terrible while you work them. See this thread on the ScrollSawVillage forum for more information.

Can you Cut Metals With Your Scroll Saw?

Yes you can! Common thin sheets of metal to cut include Aluminum, Brass, Copper, Steel and even old coins! Make sure that any metal you choose is less than 20 gauge or you may just end up damaging your blade. Although Scroll Saw wood is the first choice for most pros that doesn't mean you can't cut metal, too. You need to make sure that your machine is strong enough, in good working order and has the sharpest possible blade before you try... you may also prefer to have a lot of experience with your scroll saw before you try!

Which Material Should I Choose to Cut With My Scroll Saw?

It entirely depends on what project you want to make! If you want to cut intricate patterns for jewelry then metals that won't rust, that look good and that don't tarnish are top choices. If you are a fashion designer making an outfit then leather or dense fabric will work better than wood... If you want to practice until you are perfect try Poplar, then move on to harder woods once you get the hang of things.

Whatever you do, remember that we are here to answer all of your questions. Whether you choose scroll saw wood or work with the finest Oak – we are able to answer all of your scroll saw art and scroll saw pattern queries. Feel free to bookmark our page and return for all the latest hints and tips – or even just join the Holz Brothers facebook group, should you need extra clarification... Maybe we can have Hans cut you a deal!

Regards

Helmut Holz.

Make your own custom scroll saw patterns

(in less than 20 seconds)

Learn how at The Holz Brothers pattern store!

Scroll sawing is a popular hobby that we Holz Brothers hold close to heart. Our firm started with the purpose of making scrolling patterns that are available to everyone – so that we can all create fantastic scroll saw patterns that are personal, individual, unique and high quality... but what use is a good pattern without a good scroll saw?

We put together this guide to finding the best scroll saw for you to take some of the hassle out of making the decision and get you back to doing what you love: scrolling! We combined our years of scroll saw art experience with our hands-on knowledge of scroll saw art to create this (not nearly exhaustive) list of our top five saws for scrolling. So if you are in the market for a new saw you have landed in the right place!

Welcome to The Holz Brothers... Now let's help you choose the perfect saw for you.

Regards

Hans Holz.

Choosing the Best Scroll Saw

Choosing whether you need a dremel scroll saw or an Excalibur scroll saw – or even just a basic model for beginners – creates lots of considerations you should take into account. Think about your budget, whether you want a flat or a pin end blade, what Steve Good recommends, what speed you want to work with, if the tilt table suits you or if you want a hand or foot control. With so many variants in play it is understandable that scroll saw projects can become confusing.

We can narrow the options down to our top 5 saws – but for more information on how to choose wisely we found this article in USA Today that covers the points well. In the meantime let's look at our preferred scroll art saws and talk a little about what makes them quite so special.

Best Scroll Saw For Beginners: The Dewalt DW788

This is a very easy to use scroll saw that comes with easy to attach and detach blade clamps and also with an over sized table for added stability and support. There are a few features on this model that we love for all levels of crafting skill. Some of these include an electronic variable speed, a flexible dust blower, a blade tensioning lever and easy-lift arm.

The DW788 has a cutting depth of two inches and a stroke length of between 3 and 4 inches. The whole model is corded and weighs only 56lbs – another reason it's a great product to start out with. As an added bonus it gives a 3 year limited warranty and 1 year free servicing to give you the best possible start.

The Dewalt is also used by a lot of very talented professionals, which means that if you start with this saw, you will also be able to keep it if you decide to cut more than just for your friends and family.

Features:

• Best scroll saw for beginners.
• Easier blade changes than almost every other model.
• Flexible dust blower for continuous use.
• Scroll art projects are faster to complete with less stopping and starting.

Best Speed Control Scroll Saw: Excalibur EX-16 16'' Tilting Head Scroll Saw

Excalibur scroll saws are some of the best known in the business. They have a reputation for creating highly functional, hard-wearing scroll saws known to be worth the money. The EX-16 looks high end – and indeed it is. With an aluminum table instead of a cast iron one, has a storage compartment in-built,  has a dust blower and is portable... but arguably the best feature is the tilting head which shifts to an angle of 45 degrees to allow for precision cutting.

This is one of Excalibur's best scroll saws but we particularly love it for the speed control pedal that allows 400-1400 speeds via a simple to operate floor pedal. This scroll saw cuts to a 2 inch capacity and does so with flair, allowing for excellent precision control. As a downside it is a little tricky to work if you happen to be a first time buyer. Practice on the Dewalt before you progress to the Excalibur.

Features:

• By far the best portable scroll saw.
• Tilted head feature to 45 degree angle allows for optimal cutting.
• Super tight speed and tension control.
• Dust blower and extractor hook up.
• Very good scroll saw for intricate carving and cutting work, as well as scroll saw art.

Best Dremel Scroll Saw: Dremel MS20-01 Moto-Saw

The Dremel MS20 comes from Moto-Saw, a well known company for making the dremel/scroll saw crossover. Their models are known for innovation and ease of use, making them great for all levels of experience in cutting and carving. There are a few special features of this model that we like. The first is that it is fully detachable from its corded setting to make it portable. It makes a nice table model and a nice handheld as well.

There isn't a dust blower but there is a port should you wish to connect one. It has an auto-tensioning feature which makes blade changes easier. It has good precision, only weighs a few pounds and comes with a few extra blades, a hard case and a warranty as well. It's fairly straightforward to operate, is a good tool for beginners and should make a great addition for anyone wanting a specific Dremel scroll saw with a nice detachable handset.

Features:

• Hardy dremel scroll saw that should last a long time.
• Good reputation for dremel saws in particular, good customer reviews.
• Easily switch between handheld and table set scrolling.
• Auto tension adjust to keep your blade taught.
• Very affordable price for what you get.
• No dust blower included with your purchase, also lacks a miter gauge although you can buy both separately.

Best Scroll Saw On A Budget: the WEN 3921 16 inch

We love this model because it not only takes blades in both directions but it also uses both pinned and pinless blades, making it doubly useful to professionals. To make blade changes swifter it come with a thumb screw blade adapter and three spare blades to get you started. The WEN has a 16 x 11 inch table and a solid cast iron base for added durability.

The table bevels, cuts to 2 inches deep and features a flew light so you can keep an up close eye on your work. The variable speed settings go up to 1600 but it does cost that little bit more than some models. It has a foot lock clamp for added safety and a dust port, although you will need to buy the blower separately. Easily the best part of this whole model though, is the option to cut with two blades at once.

Features:

• Dual blade use as well as dual blade systems (pinned and pinless).
• It sports tool free blade changes.
• The WEN is built to last and firmly set in its cast iron base.
• Good for intricate work and for multi tasking cuts.
• Comparatively lightweight, good quality product.
• Blower port is not much use, a separate attachment should be ordered.

Best Overall Scroll Saw: the Delta Power Tools 40-694 20 inch

The best scroll saw for cutting a pattern has got to be the Delta. With over 90 years of experience in creating power tools this is a brand of high tech quality that can't be denied. Their drive is towards better precision and better technological application of their tools, so you already know that any scroll saw they design is going to be bigger, better and badder than the last.

This scroll saw has the capacity to go as high as 1750 SPM, making it the fastest saw in our summary. It is exceptionally quiet with low vibration and allows you to work on intricate scroll saw patterns without feeling frustrated. You can buy a foot pedal for it instead of the hand control. The table bevels to a 45 degree angle, the blades don't require a tool to replace and the whole product is suited for professional use.

Features:

• Quiet operation with low vibration and good stability.
• Speed of up to 1,750 SPM and the option to control via foot pedal.
• Lifting and locking upper arm to aid with smooth blade replacement.
• Very good model for both precision work and speed cutting.
• Can be a little tricky to set up for the non-advanced user.
• Doesn't have a vacuum or dust port.

Our Recommendations

We here at Holz Brothers want you to choose the best scroll saw for you – and the perfect way to do so is to identify the areas you need the most out of and choose a saw with features to match. If you still find yourself confused then feel free to join The Holz Brothers facebook community, Hans and I will be happy to help!

Good luck out there. We hope your perfect scroll saw is well within your grasp.

Regards

Helmut Holz

Make your own custom scroll saw patterns

(in less than 20 seconds)

Learn how at The Holz Brothers pattern store!